Aksaray Meyhane District
Aksaray's side streets hide a scattering of traditional meyhane taverns that serve the neighborhood's working-class Turkish residents. These are not the polished, tourist-friendly meyhane of Nevizade or Kumkapi. The tables are bare, the decor is minimal, and the menu is raki, meze, and grilled meat. That's the appeal. A full evening of raki and meze costs TRY 150-350 (EUR 4-9) per person, making this one of Istanbul's cheapest drinking experiences. Cold meze plates (white cheese, hummus, acili ezme, haydari) come first, followed by warm plates if you want them. Raki is measured in singles and doubles, poured tableside with water and ice. Beer runs TRY 60-100 (EUR 1.50-2.50). The clientele is almost entirely local Turkish men, many of them workers from nearby shops and businesses. Service is in Turkish only, and English menus don't exist. Pointing and basic Turkish phrases (bir raki lutfen) get you far. The atmosphere is distinctly working-class Istanbul: loud conversations, cigarette smoke drifting from the doorway, a TV showing football in the corner, and the rhythmic clink of raki glasses. These places open in the late afternoon and wind down by midnight. Don't expect entertainment or live music. The entertainment is the raki and the company.
What to Expect
Small, no-frills taverns with bare tables, fluorescent lighting, and a crowd of local men drinking raki after work. You'll be an obvious outsider but generally welcomed with curiosity. The meze arrives quickly, the raki flows steadily, and the conversations around you are loud and animated even if you can't understand them.
Raw, working-class, and authentic. No pretension, no frills, just raki and meze at honest prices.
None. Television sports and loud conversation provide the soundtrack.
Very casual. Work clothes are the norm. Overdressing will make you stand out.
Budget-minded travelers who want authentic Turkish meyhane culture without the tourist markup. Best if you speak some Turkish or go with a local.
Cash only at most places. Bring Turkish lira.
Price Range
Full evening TRY 150-350 per person (EUR 4-9), raki TRY 40-80, beer TRY 60-100
≈ $4-10 per person, $1-2 raki, $1.50-2.50 beer
Hours
Typically 4 PM to midnight
Insider Tip
Learn a few words of Turkish before going. 'Bir raki lutfen' (one raki please) and 'hesap' (the bill) will cover the basics. Don't overdress. Let the waiter choose your meze. Point at what the next table is eating if you can't read the menu.
Full Review
Finding the meyhane in Aksaray requires wandering the side streets south of Aksaray square, away from the main road and the tram line. I found mine by following two men who looked like they were heading somewhere purposeful at 7 PM on a Tuesday. They ducked into a tavern with a hand-painted sign and maybe eight tables, and I followed.
The waiter looked surprised to see a foreign face but recovered quickly. He brought a menu in Turkish that I couldn't fully read, so I said 'meze' and pointed at the raki bottle behind the bar. Within five minutes, six small plates appeared: white cheese, spicy ezme, yogurt with herbs, stuffed vine leaves, roasted peppers, and a basket of bread. The raki came in a tall glass with a side of water. Total for all of this was TRY 180.
The men at neighboring tables occasionally glanced over, and one eventually struck up a conversation using a translation app on his phone. He worked at a nearby textile warehouse and drank here most evenings. His raki consumption was impressive. Three doubles over two hours, each one carefully diluted with water.
This is not an experience for everyone. There's no English, no comfort padding, and no other tourists. But the prices are real, the food is honest, and the raki is the same stuff they serve at places charging three times as much in Beyoglu.
The Neighborhood
Aksaray's meyhane sit in a neighborhood that serves Istanbul's commercial underbelly, close to the wholesale markets and cheap hotels. The district has a gritty, working-class character that hasn't changed much despite development pressures from surrounding areas.
Getting There
Aksaray tram station on the T1 line puts you right in the area. Walk south from the main square into the side streets. The meyhane are scattered rather than clustered, so you'll need to explore. A 10-minute walk from Sultanahmet.
Address
Various side streets, Aksaray
Where to stay in Istanbul
Compare hotels near the nightlife districts. Free cancellation on most properties.
Other Venues in Aksaray
Laleli Hotel Bars
Several hotels in the Laleli area have ground-floor bars that function as nightlife venues. They cater primarily to foreign businessmen and traders. Drink prices are moderate by Istanbul standards, TRY 100-250 for beer and basic cocktails.
Kumkapi Fish Restaurants
A 15-minute walk southeast brings you to Kumkapi, a cluster of seafood restaurants with live music and outdoor seating. Tourist-oriented but a different atmosphere from Aksaray proper. Budget TRY 300-600 per person.