Kale Area Meyhane
The meyhane taverns around Ankara's citadel (Kale) have been feeding raki to locals for decades. There's no single venue here. Instead, you'll find a cluster of small, family-run taverns lining the steep cobblestone streets below the castle walls. Most open around 6 PM and the real crowd doesn't arrive until 8 or 9. A typical evening starts with cold meze plates (white cheese, hummus, ezme, stuffed vine leaves) and works its way to grilled lamb or fish. Raki is the drink of choice, served in tall glasses with water and ice. Expect to pay TRY 200-400 (EUR 5-10) per person for a full spread including several rounds of raki. Beer runs TRY 60-100 (EUR 1.50-2.50). The atmosphere is unhurried and conversational. Nobody rushes you. Some taverns bring out a saz player on weekends, filling the narrow streets with Turkish folk music that bounces off stone walls. Service is in Turkish almost exclusively, but pointing at dishes on neighboring tables works just fine. Credit cards are hit-or-miss at the smaller spots, so carry cash. The citadel setting gives these places a character that Kizilay's modern bars can't replicate. In summer, outdoor tables spill across the sidewalks and the whole area takes on a communal feeling. Winter pushes everyone inside, where the rooms are small, warm, and full of cigarette smoke drifting in from the doorway.
What to Expect
You'll walk up narrow, steep streets lined with stone buildings and hear the clink of raki glasses before you see the taverns. Pick one that looks lively, grab a table, and let the waiter bring a parade of small meze plates. The pace is slow and social. Groups of men play backgammon between courses. Nobody's in a hurry.
Old-world, convivial, and unhurried. Stone walls, dim lighting, and the anise scent of raki.
Turkish folk (live saz on weekends), otherwise conversation and ambient street noise
Casual. These are working-class neighborhood taverns, not fine dining.
Travelers who want an authentic Turkish meyhane experience away from tourist zones. Best with a group of 3-4.
Cash preferred (TRY). Some larger taverns accept cards, but don't count on it.
Price Range
TRY 200-400 per person full evening (EUR 5-10), raki TRY 60-120, beer TRY 60-100
≈ $5-11 per person, raki $1.50-3, beer $1.50-2.50
Hours
Most taverns open 6 PM to midnight, weekends until 1 AM
Insider Tip
Carry cash since many of these small taverns don't accept cards. Let the waiter guide your meze selection rather than ordering from the menu. Saturday nights bring the best atmosphere and occasional live saz music.
Full Review
I spent a Saturday evening working my way through three meyhane along the streets below the citadel. The first was a tiny room with six tables, run by a husband-and-wife team. Cold meze arrived without being ordered: white cheese, ezme, a plate of herbs, and warm bread. The raki came in a proper glass with a small pitcher of water. Total cost for two people with raki and meze was about TRY 350.
The second spot had a courtyard with views up to the castle walls. A saz player sat in the corner, playing Turkish folk standards while diners sang along to the ones they knew. The grilled lamb here was excellent, charred at the edges and served with nothing more than raw onion and sumac. Prices were slightly higher but still well under TRY 400 per person.
What makes the Kale area special isn't any single tavern. It's the collective experience of wandering these streets, hearing music spill from doorways, and choosing a place based on gut feeling. The setting does heavy lifting. Ankara's old citadel neighborhood feels a world apart from the government buildings and wide boulevards of the modern city below.
Stick to weekends for the best atmosphere. Weeknight crowds thin out early and some of the smaller taverns don't bother opening. The walk up from Ulus square is steep but short, about 10 minutes of climbing.
The Neighborhood
The Kale area sits on the hillside below Ankara's ancient citadel, the oldest continuously inhabited part of the city. While the modern center has shifted to Kizilay, this neighborhood retains its character as a working-class district with genuine local flavor that hasn't been gentrified for tourists.
Getting There
From Ulus metro station, walk east uphill toward the citadel. The meyhane district starts about 10 minutes up the hill. Look for the cluster of taverns along the cobblestone streets. A taxi from Kizilay costs TRY 50-80.
Address
Kale vicinity, Ulus
Where to stay in Ankara
Compare hotels near the nightlife districts. Free cancellation on most properties.
Other Venues in Ulus
Samanpazari Cultural Area
The restored historic market district near the citadel has a few small venues. More cultural than nightlife-oriented, with occasional live music and art events.
Hamamonu Restored District
Ottoman-era houses converted to tea houses, small restaurants, and cultural venues. Open mainly evenings. Atmospheric but closes early compared to Kizilay. Good for dinner, less so for late nights.