Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta
Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta, or 'Nobody Writes to the Colonel,' takes its name from the Gabriel Garcia Marquez novella, and the literary reference sets the tone. This cocktail bar on Peldu iela 26/28 occupies a beautifully restored space where exposed brick walls meet Soviet-era memorabilia and bookshelves. The bartenders here treat cocktail-making as a craft, with a menu that changes seasonally and incorporates local Latvian ingredients like birch sap, sea buckthorn, and black currant. The signature drinks are inventive without being gimmicky, and the classics are executed with precision. The space seats about 60 people across a main bar area and a smaller back room. Weekends bring a wait for tables, and the crowd is noticeably different from the shot-bar tourists down the street: young professionals, creative types, and couples on dates.
What to Expect
A candlelit interior with exposed brick, old books on shelves, and an atmosphere that encourages lingering. The bar itself is the centerpiece, with bartenders who explain their creations without pretension. Music stays low enough for conversation.
Warm, intimate, and literary. The kind of bar where you sit down for one drink and leave three hours later.
Background jazz, soul, and occasional vinyl DJ sets. Music enhances rather than dominates.
Smart casual. The crowd dresses well without overdoing it. You'll feel comfortable in a button-down shirt or a nice sweater and jeans.
Couples on dates, cocktail enthusiasts, and anyone tired of the shot-bar circuit in Old Town. Solo travelers will enjoy sitting at the bar.
Cards and cash accepted. EUR only.
Price Range
Cocktails 9-14 EUR, wine 6-10 EUR, beer 4-5 EUR, small plates 5-9 EUR
Cocktails ~$10-15, wine ~$7-11, beer ~$4-5
Hours
Mon-Thu 17:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 17:00-02:00, Sun 17:00-00:00
Insider Tip
Sit at the bar to watch the bartenders work and get recommendations. The seasonal menu is always worth asking about. The back room is quieter for conversation. Reservations aren't taken, so arrive early on Fridays.
Full Review
Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta is the bar that proves Riga's cocktail scene has grown up. The interior balances style and substance: exposed brick walls covered in bookshelves, mismatched vintage furniture that somehow works together, and lighting dim enough to be flattering without making you squint at the menu.
The cocktail program is where this place earns its reputation. The seasonal menu rotates every few months and consistently features ingredients you won't find in other Baltic bars. A spring menu might include a birch sap gimlet or a rhubarb whiskey sour using rhubarb from a Latvian farm. The bartenders know their recipes inside out and can adjust sweetness, strength, or spirit base on request. Classics are made properly, with fresh juice, quality ice, and correct proportions.
The crowd shifts through the evening. Early hours bring couples and small groups settling in for conversation. Later, particularly on Fridays and Saturdays, the energy picks up as the bar fills and the music gets a touch louder. It never becomes a party; the space is too small and the bartenders maintain control of the atmosphere.
The back room offers a quieter option, though seats there fill fast. The small plates menu is designed to accompany drinks rather than serve as dinner, but the cheese board and the smoked fish plate both justify ordering. For a cocktail bar in Old Town that doesn't exploit its location with tourist pricing, Pulkvedim is the standard that other Riga bars should aim for.
The Neighborhood
Located on Peldu iela, a quiet side street off the main Old Town bar circuit. The street is mostly residential with a few other small bars and restaurants. You're a 3-minute walk from the main tourist drag on Valnu iela, but the atmosphere feels miles away.
Getting There
Peldu iela 26/28 in Vecriga. A 5-minute walk from Livu laukums, 8 minutes from the Freedom Monument. Easy to find on foot if you're already in Old Town. The entrance is at street level with a small sign.
Other Venues in Vecriga (Old Riga)
Coyote Fly
Riga's largest nightclub with multiple rooms, international DJs, and a regular weekend crowd. Located on Valnu iela in the heart of Old Town.
One One
Underground electronic music club focused on techno and house. Draws a serious clubbing crowd to its dark, warehouse-style space.
Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs
Massive cellar venue beneath Old Town serving Latvian beer and hosting live folk, rock, and blues acts. A Riga institution since 2001.
Labietis
Craft brewery and taproom with dozens of experimental Latvian beers on tap. Industrial decor and a young, local crowd.
Cuba Cafe
Long-running Old Town bar popular with tourists and locals. Latin-themed decor, rum cocktails, and salsa nights on weekends.
Ala Wine Bar
Wine-focused lounge in a restored medieval cellar. Curated European wine list with Latvian cheese pairings.