Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs
Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs is a Riga institution that has occupied a massive medieval cellar beneath Old Town since 2001. The name translates to 'Folk Club Beer Cellar,' and that's exactly what you get. The space is enormous: vaulted stone ceilings, thick columns, and multiple rooms spread across the underground level at Peldu iela 19. Capacity hits 500-plus when the main stage room, the bar area, and the side rooms are all open. Live music runs almost every night, covering Latvian folk, blues, rock, Celtic, and Balkan brass depending on the booking. The beer selection leans local, with Latvian craft breweries represented alongside the standard Aldaris and Uzavas lagers. The kitchen serves traditional Latvian food: grey peas with bacon, smoked fish, dark rye bread. This is the place where tourists and locals genuinely mix, drawn together by affordable beer, good music, and a space that feels like it hasn't changed in centuries.
What to Expect
Descending stone stairs into a cavernous medieval cellar that opens into multiple rooms. The main stage area fills with standing and seated crowds during live music. Stone walls, candlelight, and wooden tables set the tone. The sound bounces off the vaulted ceilings in a way that adds character to live performances.
Warm, loud during shows, and genuinely fun. The kind of place where strangers end up sharing tables and conversation during band breaks.
Latvian folk, blues, rock, Celtic, Balkan brass, and acoustic acts. Programming changes nightly.
Casual. This is a beer cellar, not a cocktail lounge. Jeans, boots, layers for the cellar temperature.
Anyone who enjoys live music and local beer. Great for groups, solo travelers, and anyone wanting to experience Latvian culture without a tourist filter.
Cards and cash accepted. EUR only. Cash is faster at the bar during busy shows.
Price Range
Beer 3-5 EUR, cocktails 6-9 EUR, food 6-12 EUR, live music cover 3-8 EUR on event nights
Beer ~$3-5, cocktails ~$7-10, food ~$7-13
Hours
Daily 12:00-02:00, live music typically starts 20:00-21:00
Insider Tip
Arrive by 8 PM on weekends to get a seat near the main stage. The side rooms are quieter for eating. Try the local beer sampler to taste several Latvian breweries at once. The grey peas with bacon are a must-order.
Full Review
Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs has earned its 3,000-plus Google reviews by being exactly what it promises: a beer cellar with live music in a medieval basement. The stairs down from Peldu iela lead into a space that feels ancient because it is. The stone walls have been here since the 1300s, and the current owners have done right by them, adding just enough lighting and furniture without sanitizing the atmosphere.
The main room holds the stage and maybe 200 people standing. On a good night with a popular band, this room generates real energy. The sound system is adequate rather than outstanding, but the room's natural acoustics compensate. Bass reverberates through the stone, and the low ceiling keeps everything intimate. Side rooms offer escape for those who want to eat and talk without shouting over the music.
The beer selection deserves attention. Latvian craft brewing has exploded in the past decade, and Folkklubs carries a solid rotation from breweries like Labietis, Valmiermuiza, and Makatinu. The tasting sampler is a smart order if you don't know Latvian beer. Food is hearty, traditional, and priced for locals rather than tourists. The grey peas with smoked bacon and onions are the signature dish and they're excellent fuel for a long evening.
The crowd is the most mixed you'll find in Old Town Riga. Latvian families, groups of friends, visiting tourists, solo travelers, and the occasional office party all coexist. Live music nights get busy, and the shared-table setup means you'll probably end up talking to whoever sits next to you. Service is fast at the bar, slower for table orders during shows. Staff handle the volume with practiced efficiency.
The Neighborhood
Folkklubs sits on Peldu iela, the same quiet street as Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta. The two make a natural pair: cocktails at Pulkvedim, then live music at Folkklubs. The cellar entrance is easy to spot by the crowds gathering outside on weekends. Late-night food is available nearby on Skarnu iela.
Getting There
Peldu iela 19, in the center of Vecriga. A 3-minute walk from Livu laukums, 7 minutes from the Freedom Monument. Look for the stairway descending below street level. No parking nearby; arrive on foot or by Bolt.
Other Venues in Vecriga (Old Riga)
Coyote Fly
Riga's largest nightclub with multiple rooms, international DJs, and a regular weekend crowd. Located on Valnu iela in the heart of Old Town.
One One
Underground electronic music club focused on techno and house. Draws a serious clubbing crowd to its dark, warehouse-style space.
Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta
Quirky cocktail bar with a Soviet-themed interior and creative drink menu. The name translates to 'Nobody Writes to the Colonel.'
Labietis
Craft brewery and taproom with dozens of experimental Latvian beers on tap. Industrial decor and a young, local crowd.
Cuba Cafe
Long-running Old Town bar popular with tourists and locals. Latin-themed decor, rum cocktails, and salsa nights on weekends.
Ala Wine Bar
Wine-focused lounge in a restored medieval cellar. Curated European wine list with Latvian cheese pairings.