The Discreet Gentleman
The Chequerboard
Bar

The Chequerboard

4.4
(730 reviews)
Galle Face-Kollupitiya, Colombo

The Chequerboard bar sits inside the Galle Face Hotel, which has operated continuously since 1864, making it the oldest hotel east of the Suez Canal still in its original building. The bar occupies a seafront veranda with black and white checkered floors that give it its name, high ceilings with slowly rotating wooden fans, colonial-era furniture, and unobstructed views of the Indian Ocean through open arched windows. Capacity is roughly 60 across the veranda and an adjacent indoor section. The drink menu balances classic cocktails with a selection of Ceylon teas spiked with arrack or gin for a local twist. The crowd is the most international in Colombo: diplomats, journalists, heritage tourists, and older travelers drawn by the hotel's 160-year history. Sunset is the premium window, when the low light through the arched windows creates the kind of atmosphere that Instagram can't quite capture. The pace is slower than anywhere else in Colombo's nightlife circuit, which is precisely the point.

What to Expect

Walking into the Galle Face Hotel is walking into a different century. The lobby smells of furniture polish and frangipani. The Chequerboard bar opens onto a veranda where ocean air moves through arched windows. Ceiling fans turn slowly above checkered tile floors. Ice clinks in glasses. The pace drops immediately. This is not a place that rushes.

Atmosphere

Colonial, unhurried, and romantic. Time slows down on this veranda in a way that modern Colombo can't replicate.

Music

No music. The ocean and conversation provide the soundtrack. Occasional live piano in the adjacent lobby on special evenings.

Dress Code

Smart casual. The colonial setting encourages dressing up slightly, but enforcement is relaxed. Linen shirts and clean sandals fit the aesthetic better than suits.

Best For

History enthusiasts, couples wanting a romantic sunset drink, writers looking for atmosphere, anyone who appreciates heritage properties and a slower pace.

Payment

Credit cards and cash (LKR) accepted. Room charges for hotel guests.

Price Range

Cocktails 1,800-3,000 LKR, beer 900-1,400 LKR, Ceylon tea cocktails 2,000-2,800 LKR, afternoon tea service 3,500-5,000 LKR

Cocktails ~$6-10/~5.50-9.20 EUR, beer ~$3-4.65/~2.75-4.30 EUR

Hours

Daily 10:00-23:00

Insider Tip

Book a veranda table for sunset, which happens around 6:00 to 6:30 PM year-round. The Ceylon tea cocktails are unique to this venue and worth trying. Sunday afternoon tea service is a colonial relic worth experiencing once. Ask the bartender about the hotel's history; some have worked here for 20-plus years.

Full Review

The Galle Face Hotel has survived wars, tsunamis, economic crises, and the relentless march of modern hospitality development around it. The Chequerboard bar is the best expression of what the property offers: a physical connection to Colombo's colonial past that no amount of renovation at other hotels can fake.

The veranda seating is the only option worth taking. Inside is fine for rain days, but the ocean-facing arched windows, the checkered floor, and the ceiling fans create an atmosphere that the air-conditioned interior can't match. Tables seat two to four people, and the spacing is generous enough for private conversation. The view is simple but effective: the Indian Ocean, the Galle Face Green promenade below, and Colombo's skyline fading into the haze to the south.

The drink program respects the setting. Classic cocktails are mixed with competence rather than flair. The Ceylon tea cocktails, blending local teas with arrack or gin, are the house specialty and worth ordering. A gin and tonic made with local botanicals and served in proper glassware feels right here. Prices are moderate for a heritage five-star property. The afternoon tea service is a separate experience that draws a dedicated crowd on weekends.

The Chequerboard closes at 11 PM, which makes it an early evening destination rather than a late-night option. It works best as the start of an evening before moving to livelier venues along Galle Road. The pace can feel too slow for anyone looking for energy or a party atmosphere. But for a sunset drink in a setting with genuine history, nothing in Colombo competes. The hotel's renovation plans have been discussed for years; visit while the original character remains intact.

The Neighborhood

The Galle Face Hotel sits at the north end of Galle Face Green, at the boundary between Fort and Kollupitiya. The Shangri-La is a 5-minute walk north. The Cinnamon Grand and Taj Samudra are a 10-minute walk south along Galle Road. The promenade itself is a pleasant pre-drink walk in the evening.

Getting There

The Galle Face Hotel faces the Galle Face Green on Galle Road. Enter through the main lobby. From Fort, it's a 10-minute walk south. From Kollupitiya Junction, a 10-minute walk north. From the airport, 45-90 minutes by taxi. The hotel's address is 2 Galle Road, Colombo 3.

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