Dva Jelena
Dva Jelena (Two Deer) is one of Skadarlija's grand kafanas, occupying a large building directly across from Tri Sesira in what amounts to a friendly rivalry that benefits every diner on the street. The venue is known for its grilled meats, portions that test the limits of appetite, and a boisterous atmosphere that reaches full intensity on weekend evenings. The upstairs dining room has a terrace overlooking the cobblestoned street below, offering a prime vantage point for watching Skadarlija come alive. Live musicians play nightly, focusing on traditional Serbian and old Belgrade repertoire with a style that matches the venue's scale. The ground floor dining room handles the largest groups and private celebrations, while the upper terrace accommodates diners who prefer fresh air with their cevapi. A full dinner runs RSD 2,500-4,500 per person including drinks, and the portions ensure that no one leaves hungry. The mixed grill platter for two is practically a local legend, arriving on a wooden board loaded with enough meat to feed a table of three comfortably.
What to Expect
A large, lively kafana with hearty food, live music, and a crowd that's celebrating something. The atmosphere ranges from dignified dinner at 7 PM to full communal party by 10 PM. Groups dominate, and the energy feeds on itself.
Festive, loud, and generous. Everything about Dva Jelena is big: the portions, the music, the atmosphere, and the bill's value for money.
Live traditional Serbian folk and starogradska muzika (old Belgrade urban songs)
Smart casual. Comfortable for a long dinner that turns into an evening.
Groups celebrating occasions. Travelers who want generous portions and live music. Anyone who wants to experience Serbian dining culture at full volume.
Cash (RSD) and cards accepted
Price Range
Mains RSD 800-2,000, grilled platters RSD 1,500-2,200, beer RSD 280-380, wine RSD 300-550, rakija RSD 180-300
≈ EUR 6.80-18.80 / USD 7.40-20.50 for mains, EUR 1.53-4.70 / USD 1.67-5.10 for drinks
Hours
Daily 11 AM to midnight, live music from 8 PM
Insider Tip
The upstairs terrace table is the best seat in the house. Request it when booking. The mixed grill for two is enough for three unless you skipped lunch. Order a bottle of Prokupac red wine to pair with the meat.
Full Review
Dva Jelena commands a prominent position on Skadarlija, its facade facing Tri Sesira across the cobblestones in what amounts to the street's main intersection of energy and tradition. The interior is spacious and divided across multiple levels, each with its own bar, its own acoustic character, and its own rotation of musicians through the evening. The ground floor handles the largest parties and walk-ins with tables that can seat eight comfortably. The upper level, accessible by a narrow staircase, has the terrace that's become one of Skadarlija's most requested seating areas for its views down onto the street scene below.
The food at Dva Jelena is traditional Serbian grill cuisine served in quantities that reflect the Balkan approach to hospitality: more is always better, and leaving food on the plate is almost an insult to the kitchen. The cevapi come in sets of ten, the pljeskavica is oversized, and the mixed grill platters would feed a family. Quality is consistent and honest. The meat is grilled to order over charcoal, and the sides, specifically the kajmak (Serbian cream cheese spread), shopska salad, and fresh bread baked on premises, support the main dishes without trying to steal attention.
Musicians at Dva Jelena play the same repertoire as their Skadarlija competitors but with a style that matches the venue's scale and energy. The band is often slightly larger than at smaller kafanas, and the sound fills the room naturally without amplification in the way that live music should. The interaction between musicians and diners follows the standard kafana protocol: catch the leader's eye, slip them RSD 500-1,000, and name your song. The better the tip, the longer the performance. Tables that order well and tip generously get return visits from the band throughout the evening.
The atmosphere at Dva Jelena trends louder and more boisterous than the smaller kafanas further along the street. Groups celebrating birthdays, engagements, promotions, and graduations gravitate here because the space can absorb their volume and their joy. By 10 PM on weekends, the room is a festival of raised glasses, singing, and the occasional spontaneous dance between tables. It's not subtle, and it doesn't pretend to be. Subtlety has never been Skadarlija's specialty, and Dva Jelena embraces that tradition wholeheartedly.
The Neighborhood
Dva Jelena faces Tri Sesira across Skadarlija's cobblestones, creating a natural rivalry that benefits diners. Choosing between them is a matter of mood: Tri Sesira for history and intimacy, Dva Jelena for scale and energy.
Getting There
Walk from Republic Square along Skadarska street, about 5 minutes. Dva Jelena is on the right side, directly opposite Tri Sesira. The terrace and signage make it easy to identify.
Address
Skadarska 32
Other Venues in Skadarlija
Tri Sesira
One of Skadarlija's oldest and most famous kafanas, operating since 1864. Live music fills the multi-room interior nightly, and the traditional Serbian menu covers all the classics from cevapi to karadjordjeva snicla.
Sesir Moj
A more intimate kafana tucked into a courtyard off the main street. The smaller space creates a louder, more intense atmosphere when the music starts, and the rakija selection is among Skadarlija's best.
Ima Dana
A mid-range kafana that strikes a balance between tourist-friendly service and authentic atmosphere. The outdoor seating on the cobblestones fills first in summer, and the menu focuses on traditional Vojvodina cuisine.
Zlatni Bokal
A wine-focused kafana with an extensive Serbian wine list and a quieter atmosphere than its neighbors. The grilled fish menu sets it apart from the meat-heavy competition, and the courtyard garden offers a retreat from the street's energy.