Sullivan Park

Overview

Sullivan Park (Parque Sullivan) sits on the border between the San Rafael and Santa Maria la Ribera neighborhoods in Mexico City, just north of Paseo de la Reforma. For decades, the park and the surrounding streets were among the most recognized locations in the city for street-based sex work. The area earned a reputation that extended well beyond Mexico, and for many years it was one of the first places mentioned in any discussion of Mexico City's adult scene.

That reputation is now largely historical. The Sullivan Park area has undergone significant changes over the past 10-15 years. A combination of police operations, municipal cleanup efforts, and the broader gentrification of San Rafael and Santa Maria la Ribera has reduced the visible street scene dramatically. What was once a highly active strip is now a quieter area where activity persists but at a fraction of its former intensity.

The park itself hosts a well-known weekend art market (Jardin del Arte Sullivan) every Sunday, where painters display and sell their work. This family-friendly event speaks to the neighborhood's transformation. The art market has operated since the 1950s and draws a completely different crowd from what the area was known for after dark.

Current State

Some street-level activity continues in the blocks surrounding the park, particularly along the streets running south toward Paseo de la Reforma and in the side streets of San Rafael. Workers are present in the late evening and early morning hours, but the numbers are a fraction of what they were a decade ago.

The gentrification of San Rafael has brought new restaurants, cafes, and cultural spaces to the neighborhood. The Kiosco Morisco in nearby Santa Maria la Ribera has become a local landmark, and the surrounding streets have seen investment. This urban renewal has pushed the adult activity further to the margins, both physically and in public visibility.

Some of the remaining activity has shifted indoors, to small hotels and private locations in the surrounding blocks. Online platforms have also absorbed some of what used to be street-based. The open-air marketplace model that defined Sullivan Park for generations is fading, replaced by less visible arrangements.

Safety

The Sullivan Park area carries a moderate safety rating, which reflects both the improving neighborhood and the remaining risks.

• Petty crime remains a concern after dark. The residential side streets of San Rafael are poorly lit and not heavily patrolled
• Police shakedowns can target people in the area at night who appear to be looking for adult activity. Officers may demand cash or threaten arrest for vague charges
• The surrounding neighborhoods are mixed. San Rafael is gentrifying, but blocks adjacent to the park still include rough stretches. The Buenavista train station area to the east has its own crime concerns
• Don't confuse the daytime character with nighttime reality. The Sunday art market and the cafes along Calle Sullivan create a pleasant atmosphere that disappears after dark

The honest assessment: Sullivan Park is no longer a primary destination for the activity it was historically known for. Visitors seeking that scene will find more options in Zona Rosa, and the risks here don't justify what little remains.

Cultural Context

Sullivan Park's history mirrors a pattern seen in cities worldwide. An area becomes known for street-level sex work, that reputation persists for decades, and eventually urban development and law enforcement reshape the neighborhood. San Rafael's arc from working-class neighborhood to gentrifying district with craft coffee shops follows the same trajectory as similar neighborhoods in Bogota, Bangkok, and Berlin.

The workers who operated in the Sullivan Park area historically included transgender women, who were a visible and documented part of the street scene for decades. This population has been disproportionately affected by violence and discrimination in Mexico, and their presence in Sullivan Park was tied to broader patterns of marginalization. The reduction in visible street work here hasn't resolved those underlying issues; it's shifted them elsewhere or pushed them underground.

What Not to Do

• Do not visit Sullivan Park specifically for adult activity expecting the historical scene; it's largely gone
• Do not wander the side streets of San Rafael alone after dark
• Do not carry valuables or large amounts of cash if you're exploring the area at night
• Do not take photos of workers or police activity; this provokes confrontation
• Do not assume the area is dangerous during the day. Daytime Sullivan Park, especially during the Sunday art market, is a perfectly normal public space
• Do not ignore the safety basics that apply everywhere in Mexico City: use Uber, keep your phone out of sight, and stay aware of your surroundings