Guemes

Overview and Location

Guemes sits just west of Nueva Cordoba, Cordoba's primary nightlife zone, separated by a few blocks and a noticeable shift in character. Where Nueva Cordoba runs on student energy and high-volume bars, Guemes trades in something different: craft drinks, vintage finds, live music, and a crowd that's grown out of the university scene but hasn't left the city behind.

The neighborhood takes its name from Martin Miguel de Guemes, the Argentine independence-era military leader, though locals rarely think about the history. What defines Guemes today is its weekend feria, a sprawling open-air market that fills several blocks every Saturday and Sunday with vendors, food stalls, street performers, and thousands of people browsing. By nightfall, the market energy transitions into bar and venue activity along Belgrano Street and the surrounding blocks.

Guemes has undergone steady gentrification over the past decade. Craft breweries, cocktail bars, co-working spaces, and boutique shops have replaced older businesses. The neighborhood still keeps a rough, artistic edge, but the rough is more curated than it used to be. Think Brooklyn in the mid-2010s, transplanted to central Argentina.

Legal Status

Guemes falls under the same legal framework as the rest of Cordoba and Argentina. Federal law doesn't criminalize individual sex work, but Cordoba province's contravention code restricts public solicitation. Provincial police have discretion in enforcement, and the approach in Cordoba tends to be less aggressive than in Buenos Aires.

Federal anti-trafficking laws apply throughout Argentina. Organizing, promoting, or profiting from another person's sex work carries serious criminal penalties. The university-town character of Cordoba means local authorities are sensitive to complaints from residents and families of students, which influences how they approach gray-area activity.

In Guemes, nightlife operates through licensed bars, restaurants, and music venues. The bohemian atmosphere doesn't translate to looser enforcement; if anything, the neighborhood's growing popularity has brought more attention from local authorities concerned with noise, public drinking, and crowd management during the weekend feria.

Costs and Pricing

Guemes is one of the cheapest nightlife areas you'll find in any Argentine city. Cordoba is already significantly more affordable than Buenos Aires, and Guemes sits below even Cordoba's average. For visitors with USD or EUR, the numbers are almost absurdly low.

Craft beer: A pint at a Guemes brew pub costs 1,500-3,500 ARS. Happy hour specials at some bars drop that further. El Mentidero de Guemes, in the back of the Muy Guemes courtyard on Belgrano, serves solid craft beer and shared plates at reasonable prices.

Cocktails: Mixed drinks at cocktail bars run 2,500-5,000 ARS. Apartamento, a multi-level bar known for herbaceous cocktails, charges toward the higher end. Simpler bars and boliches (informal bars) charge less.

Fernet con Coca: The signature Cordoba drink costs 2,000-4,000 ARS in most bars. A large bottle of Fernet Branca shared among friends at a previa costs 8,000-15,000 ARS, enough for a group.

Live music: Door charges at venues hosting live bands range from free to 5,000 ARS. Most bars with live music don't charge admission at all; they make money on drinks.

Food: Street food at the weekend feria costs 1,000-3,000 ARS per item. Sit-down dinner at a neighborhood restaurant runs 5,000-12,000 ARS per person. Choripan and empanadas from street vendors cost 800-2,000 ARS.

Transport: Uber, Cabify, and DiDi rides within Cordoba's central neighborhoods cost very little, typically under 2,000 ARS. Walking from Nueva Cordoba to Guemes takes about 15 minutes along well-lit streets.

Street-Level Detail

Belgrano Street is the main artery of Guemes nightlife. Starting from around Achával Rodriguez and heading west, the street fills with bars, restaurants, and live music venues. On weekend evenings, the sidewalk tables are full by 10 PM, and the crowd spills onto the street where the feria stalls stood hours earlier.

El Mentidero de Guemes operates out of a courtyard space in the Muy Guemes complex on Belgrano. The pub has indoor and outdoor seating, craft beer on tap, and a menu of shareable plates. It's a good starting point for an evening in the neighborhood. The courtyard setting means it's quieter than street-facing bars, even on busy nights.

Apartamento sits a few blocks off Belgrano in a multi-level building that mixes a bar, gallery space, and event area. The drink menu focuses on botanical and herbaceous cocktails, and the decor aims for a "lived-in apartment" feel. It's been a trendsetter in Guemes since opening in 2012 and draws a mix of local creatives and visitors.

Dada Store Mini Bar, also near Belgrano, combines a small bar with a vintage shop. The outdoor courtyard is a relaxed spot for early-evening drinks, and the eclectic music selection sets a different tone from the louder bars further down the street.

For live music, several bars along Belgrano and the connecting streets host bands on Thursday through Saturday nights. Genres rotate between rock, cumbia, folk, and jazz. These aren't concert halls; they're bar-sized venues where the band sets up in a corner and the crowd is close enough to hand the guitarist a beer.

The weekend feria itself is a major social event. Starting around 5 PM on Saturdays and Sundays, vendors set up stalls selling handmade jewelry, leather goods, vintage clothing, artwork, and crafts. Food stalls serve choripan, empanadas, hamburguesas, and craft beer. Street musicians play at intersections. The market draws families, students, tourists, and the neighborhood's creative community. As the vendors pack up around 10 PM, the crowd migrates to the bars.

Safety

Guemes is generally safe during the hours when the feria is running and bars are active. The combination of foot traffic, lit storefronts, and a mixed-age crowd creates a comfortable atmosphere. Cordoba overall has less street crime than Buenos Aires, and Guemes benefits from the attention that its growing popularity brings.

That said, the neighborhood has some vulnerabilities. Side streets off the main Belgrano corridor get dark and quiet after the bars close. Pickpocketing occurs at the weekend feria, especially in the denser sections where vendors cluster together. Phone snatching happens, though less frequently than in Buenos Aires.

Don't carry more cash than you need. Keep your phone in an inside pocket when walking through crowded market areas. After the bars close, use a ride-hailing app to get home rather than walking through empty side streets. The walk from Guemes to Nueva Cordoba along main roads is manageable, but avoid shortcuts through poorly lit residential blocks late at night.

Save 911 on your phone and keep your accommodation's address handy.

Cultural Context

Guemes represents Cordoba's creative and slightly countercultural identity. The neighborhood attracts artists, musicians, small business owners, and people who prefer a slower, more intentional social scene than what the student bars of Nueva Cordoba provide. Conversations in Guemes bars are more likely to touch on music, art, and local politics than on which club to hit next.

Fernet con Coca-Cola is the cultural centerpiece. Cordoba considers itself the Fernet capital of Argentina, and the claim is backed by consumption data. The drink, a mix of the bitter Italian herbal liqueur Fernet Branca and Coca-Cola over ice, is ordered everywhere. In Guemes bars, you'll see tables sharing a single large glass of Fernet con Coca, passing it around like mate. If someone offers you a sip, refusing is a social misstep. The taste is aggressively herbal and bitter. You may not enjoy it the first time. Keep trying.

Cuarteto, the local music genre with roots in 1940s Cordoba dance halls, is a point of regional pride. You'll hear it in some Guemes bars alongside cumbia, rock nacional, and whatever the live band that night is playing. Asking about cuarteto signals that you've done your homework on local culture.

Spanish is the only working language in Guemes. English speakers are rare outside of international hostels. Even basic Spanish, ordering a beer, asking where the bathroom is, complimenting the music, opens doors that English can't. Cordobeses speak with a distinctive sing-song accent that other Argentines immediately recognize. Don't worry if it sounds different from the Spanish you learned; you'll adjust.

Scam Warnings

Drink spiking: While less commonly reported in Cordoba than in Buenos Aires, drink spiking does occur in nightlife settings. Don't accept drinks from strangers, and keep your glass in sight at all times. If you feel unusually disoriented after one or two drinks, tell a friend or bar staff immediately.

Overcharging at bars: Some bars charge higher prices to people they perceive as tourists. Check prices on the menu before ordering. If a bar doesn't have a visible menu, ask for prices before your first round.

Unlicensed transport: Unmarked cars posing as taxis sometimes operate near the feria and around nightlife areas. Use Uber, Cabify, or DiDi, or ask your hotel to call a registered remis (private car service).

Nearby Areas

Nueva Cordoba: The main nightlife district, about a 15-minute walk east. It's student-dominated, louder, and higher-volume than Guemes. If you want big clubs and packed dance floors, Nueva Cordoba is where to go after starting the evening in Guemes.

El Abasto: North of the city center, the El Abasto area hosts larger nightclubs and event venues along Boulevard Las Heras. The music is louder and the format is bigger than Guemes' bar scene. Getting there requires a car or ride-hailing app.

Centro Historico: Cordoba's historic center, with Jesuit churches and colonial buildings. It has some bars and restaurants, but the area empties after business hours and isn't a nightlife destination. The walk from Guemes to the center takes about 20 minutes.

Meeting People Nearby

Guemes' social atmosphere makes it one of Cordoba's easiest neighborhoods for meeting people. The weekend feria is a natural conversation starter, with vendors, performers, and attendees all mixing in an open, relaxed setting. The smaller bar sizes in Guemes mean you're physically closer to the people around you, and the volume is usually low enough to actually talk. Language exchange events and creative community meetups happen periodically at venues in Guemes. For a fuller picture of Cordoba's social dynamics, see the main Cordoba city guide.

Best Times

• Saturday and Sunday afternoons (5 PM onward): The feria is in full swing, transitioning into nightlife by 10 PM
• Thursday through Saturday nights: Best bar and live music activity
• 11 PM to 3 AM: Bars at their peak. Guemes doesn't run as late as Nueva Cordoba's club scene
• March through May and September through November: Academic year means a full social scene and comfortable weather (15-25C)
• Summer (December through February): Hot (35C+), and many students leave in January, reducing activity
• Monday through Wednesday: Quiet. Most bars are closed or barely open

What Not to Do

• Do not refuse a Fernet con Coca if someone offers you a sip; it's a local social ritual
• Do not walk through dark side streets after the bars close; use ride-hailing apps
• Do not carry large amounts of cash at the feria; pickpocketing happens in crowds
• Do not rely on English; even basic Spanish makes a dramatic difference in Cordoba
• Do not show up to bars before 11 PM and expect a crowd; things start late
• Do not leave your drink unattended
• Do not accept drinks from people you don't know
• Do not engage with anyone who appears to be underage; Argentine federal law imposes severe penalties
• Do not assume Guemes is just "Cordoba's Palermo"; locals take pride in the neighborhood's distinct identity, and acknowledging that matters